lunes, abril 14, 2008

Doing the Unexpected

* The lesson :
You don`t have to know what you´re going to do until you`re doing it. Sometimes I reckon this is surfing`s most SEDUCTIVE aspect.

Pretty much everything else you do in Life requires some sort o planning head; the worl wants you to sing up for shit all day long, and as you get older it just gets worse.

Ask you dad about his mortgage, and watch him suppress the rude words he knows he shouldn`t say in front of you.
on wave, there´s none of that Crap going on. It`s one instant following another, and every moment the whole thing changes. It´s not asking for your permission - and it`s not telling you what to do, either .
...I like that ..You know, the unexpected.


Over and Over
(Old songs never die)

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Nacido en Chucaquimata,de profesión periodista, surfista amante del mar,el arte, el pan con palta y los muffins.